Chief Among Chefs
In the quiet, Long Island, NY, town of East
Northport where chef Michael Psilakis grew up,
a home on a half-acre lot and a swimming pool
in the backyard symbolised suburban American
success.
Psilakis’ Greek immigrant parents acquired
those trappings but they also clung to their old country
roots. Neighbours didn’t really get the
open-air grilling of a whole lamb on a spit, the
20 to 30 relatives who would gather at the house
every weekend - up to 200 for major feasts - or
the way Greek religious and family life left the
Psilakises no time for “American” ways and
friends.
Home life revolved around mum’s
impeccable yiouvarelakia and other Greek
classics, which she conjured in her kitchen from
memory.
“I didn’t know what ‘fine dining’ was,”
Psilakis says. “I can count on one hand the
number of times we went out to a restaurant to
eat.”
It was this insular upbringing that makes
Psilakis’ journey from sleepy East Northport to
the pinnacle of the Manhattan restaurant scene
- only 40 miles to the west, but on another
planet in every other way - the unlikely success
story it is.
Only five years after lighting out of the
suburbs for the big city, Psilakis at 40 is the
chef-owner of three Manhattan restaurants.
Anthos is the only Greek restaurant in America
to hold a Michelin star, and one of only two
Greek restaurants in the world - Athens’s
Varoulko being the other - to have earned the
distinction.
Two more Psilakis establishments are slated
to open later this year, one in Miami and
another in Manhattan, and the chef’s first
cookbook is due out in the autumn. The kitchen
wizard who neither attended culinary school nor
apprenticed with anyone other than his mother
has been showered with awards, including top
chef accolades from Food and Wine, Bon Appetit
and Esquire.
On March 25, he added a new line to his
already glittering resume: White House guest
chef. Psilakis celebrated Greek Independence
Day by whipping up some of his much-heralded
modern Greek cuisine for President Barack
Obama, Vice-President Joe Biden, Archbishop
Demetrios and 200 guests at a reception hosted
by the president and his wife Michelle.
Hugging Obama
“I was fortunate not only to meet [President
Obama],” says Psilakis, who sports a hipsterish
chin beard, bald head and a cerebral intensity.
“I hugged him. He was very inquisitive about
the food and who I was and what we were
doing.”
Working with three of his own chefs and
five White House chefs, Psilakis served some
of his signature Anthos dishes, including raw
meze of tuna with feta, trahana in a rabbit jus
with dehydrated halloumi, and roasted octopus
with pickled morel mushroom, baby fennel and
leeks.
“It was the first time in a long time I felt
nervous about anything. I never feel nervous,”
Psilakis recalls. “All the heads of the church
were there, many of whom I knew from when I
was young because my father was president of
our church. There were so many text and email
messages from people telling me how proud
they were. At a certain point I felt that I was
carrying the weight of Greece on my shoulders.”
As a 22-year-old waiter at the chain
restaurant TGI Friday’s, Psilakis met the
woman who would become his wife, Anna. He
moved on to a Long Island trattoria called Cafe
Angelica, not exactly a formal restaurant, but,
to Psilakis, the fanciest restaurant he’d ever
been to.
“I was exposed to levels of service, to the
professionalism and integrity that came with
really being in love with what you do,” he
recalls. “I immediately fell in love with that.”
He quickly moved up from waiter to manger
and then owner of the establishment, renaming
it Ecco. The real epiphany came when the chef
failed to show up for work one day and Psilakis
had to step in and man the stoves.
“As soon as that happened, I just knew I
was meant to be in the kitchen,” he says. “I
don’t know how, but I just knew this was it.”
Gifted novice
Soon the gifted novice who had just
discovered fois gras was devising elaborate
tasting menus featuring the fatty goose liver,
truffles and other luxury items.
His perfectionism led him on a quest to
build a first-rate wine cellar, which put him in
touch with wine professionals and other chefs
from Manhattan. Rave reviews from The New
York Times and New York Magazine followed,
placing him on the radar of urban foodies
heading for the Hamptons for the weekend.
Psilakis opened the Greek-inspired Onera,
his first Manhattan restaurant, in 2004, which
he later transformed into Kefi. The more formal
Dona followed in 2006, marking his first
collaboration with restaurateur Donatella
Arpaia (it closed in 2007 after losing its lease),
then Anthos and the more casual Mia Dona.
Psilakis’ growing fame has lured curious
visitors from Greece and Greek-Americans
from across the country eager to sample his
haute take on their beloved foods. Not all have
embraced his innovations.
“There have been people who have come in
and said, ‘How is this Greek food?’” Psilakis
admits, noting that many Greeks are
traditionalists fiercely proud of their heritage
and loath to change the way things have been
done for millennia.
Psilakis says he wants to modernise the
cuisine of his culture, retaining its soul while
updating its form.
It is easier for him to do that in America
than it is for top chefs in Greece “because
there’s an unbelievable amount of pride in
[Greek] history there”, Psilakis says. “When you
start playing around with history in Greece,
you’re really playing with fire.”